Khamlia: The Village of Gnawa Music at the Edge of the Dunes
The story of the Gnawa families who came with the caravans, their hypnotic music and how to visit Khamlia respectfully.
At the southern end of Erg Chebbi, about seven kilometres from Merzouga, there is a small village of earth houses called Khamlia. Its people are different from their neighbours: they are the descendants of families who came from Mali, Sudan and the south of the Sahara with the caravans.
What is Gnawa music?
Gnawa music is a mix of African rhythms, Berber songs and Sufi spirituality. The musicians play big drums called tbel, the guembri (a three-string bass lute made of wood and camel skin) and the qraqeb, heavy metal castanets that give the music its hypnotic sound. In 2019 UNESCO recognised Gnawa as part of the intangible heritage of humanity.
A visit to Khamlia
In a house of the village, the musicians welcome visitors with mint tea and play for about half an hour, dressed in white, dancing in circles. Then they explain the meaning of the songs and invite you to try the instruments. The visit is relaxed and suitable for children.
How to visit respectfully
- Ask before taking photos of people outside the music house.
- Leave a contribution or buy a CD: it is how the families live.
- Dress modestly; Khamlia is a village, not a museum.
How to get there
Khamlia is included in our half-day 4×4 tour, in the full-day tour with Rissani and in the half-day quad expedition. You can also book the Gnawa music visit on its own.
Ready for the Sahara?
Camel trek, a night in our camp or a private tour from any city: tell us what you dream of and we organise it.
